Lordsburg

Lordsburg, New Mexico.
A small town not to be missed when you travel the southern tier between Miami and Los Angeles.
Interstate 10skirts Lordsburg.
Burlington North and Santa Fé's (BNSF) freighttrains pass 50 times daily. Last year more than a hundred.
One Amtraktrain, the Sunset Limited, passes daily and makes a stop. A quarter till four hours late because the freight trains have a privilege: it's the economy stupid.
The Greyhound stops.
Both passenger carriers are searched for illegal people: Mexicans.
There's a Border Patrol Station.It's obviousbecause there are fifty patrol cars. Andmany on the road, we saw, scanning the long and high curtain between Mexico and the promised land.
More welcome are the 'road-runners' from east to west and the other way, such as business people and tourists.

A bunch of motels, 'restaurants', pertrol stations and utility shops guarantee that - after fulfilling human (sleep/eat) and vehicle needs you can leave as soon as possible. The survival stuff for mankind in a hurry.

The motelshave been built in the prefab way and though very windy in the night, to my big surprise all buildings stand up right the next morning.

In Lordsburg's adjacent 'towns' there are similar facilities. Plus psychological care. Silver City, Las Cruces and Tucson are ready to receive victims.If you have a talent for a depression and stay longer in Lordsburg than necessary you will be a potential client, the motel-caretaker said.

He appeared to be non-talentedI concluded after a nice chat.

And allpeople we met there, living and working are very nice and polite. Apart from banging with doors and elephant walking on the first floor of motels no other weird hobbies have been practised. And it seems to be the visitor who does so. The motels front office lady shows us the way to another motel with a big smile because she can't offer wifi... Her Have a nice day is more than the usual commonplace.

Truckdrivers have their good customs too. But they are polite and wait till 05.00 a.m. before they start the engine of their mastodonts in front of your room.

At about 07.15 a.m. it's quiet again. The sun rises and a bright, warm new day is arriving. The shower is ok, the toilet works perfectly, the wifi has a strong signal, the beds are gorgeous, tv is bright and brings good news (and not one criminal item). The rental car is patiently waiting outside, alone, deserted by its adjacent trucks.

And Chiricahua National Monument is nearby. Shakespeare still closer. His ghost is persevered in the ghost town's name.
Lordsburg, it's good you are there.
W.S.: 'The world is a stage and we're merely the players.'

Heroes and herons

Lake Elephant Butte, 15 February 2009 -

(pics in photo gallery)

The heart of the Elephant Butte State Park andNew Mexico's largest lake. It was about 15 degrees when we entered via the Visitor Center. 'Yes, camping is possible, wherever you want. And be careful, off the road the soil might be very weak.

Camping at the lake, inaugurating our tent (1 or2 person?) and withstanding wind (and twirling sand) and maybe a cold night.

Actually the tent appeared to be very small, very appropriate for a cyclist with some stuff. After some rebuilding the back side of the car was transformed in a mini-bedroom. So we had two locations to sleep.

The mornig was gorgeous. Being awake at about six due to the cold (in the car!) seeing the sun rise above mountains and lake was gorgeous. And herons already on duty, finding their food in thewaveless lake.

We were the only ones at the lakeside. Somewhat higher was the decadent type of the tourist specimen watching tv in his/her RV. Very American and the only article not to be bought in the Walmart And not made in China.

Camping in the wild in a tent and a second house... a lifetime experience. One in the list of the recent bestseller Thousand activities you must have done before you die. This is nr. 278. We're still young and have time!!!

It didn't take long before number 279 was there.

Our so-called 4wheel-drive (front office desk manager Budget Rental Car in Phoenix) appeeared to be only front wheel drive. So after some yards we were ploughing in the sand like an experienced farmer. The car refused to continue.

Pieces wood, mats and Edwin pushing: nothing worked out and we surrendered. ANWB or Route Mobiel, no this is USA: the rangers should help us out.

No way. Every year about 2500 drivers bite in the dust, i.e. the sand. But when we considered to phone the helpdesk to tow us for 150 dollars, Bill arrived.

Bill: fully tattood, waistsize 52, grey long hair and his face the spurs of a wrought life but more important: a giganatic 4wheel drive. A big cloud of dust was his introduction performance. It seemed hetried to take off in the air but after every attempt his car landed again after some yards.

We stopped him. Bill got out. His American (not British!) bulldog got out too. I saw a chance: three strong 'items'.

Bill didn't say much, took a solid rope and attached it at the rear wheelbar. I had hardly time to put the handle from the Parking stand to the Rear to give a bit support.

The car survived, my bloodpressure decreased and Bill started talking.

No problem, I have still bigger cars at home, etc.

A pram almost fell out of the car: 'my baby' he said. And he had still nine other children. Edwin said: He likes going 'Van Bil', but only hours later, climbing the Emerald Pass to Silver City he explained me. Double Dutch sense of humour.

Thank you Bill.

Silver City was marvellous. Much more character than the artisan-like Sedona. The art and the atmosphere made the former coppermine town one of the highlights of our tour.

And the road from Caballo Lake was a gem too.

Though some coppermines are still open or reopened due to the high copper price.

Much unemployment now told the petrol station lady who was taking a smoke outside, not to close to the fuel providing place. More than 60 % of the Silver City people worked in the coppermines and plants. Nowadays hardly 10 %.

But today it's a bit chilly. And that's why we decide to head for Lordsburg, much lower (4000 feet) and more southern and probably 'warmer'.

In the shabby town with Greyhound and Amtrak (bus and train) station, the obvious series motels, gas stations and fast food chwe sains. We selected Super8: criteria were the price, wifi , a tub and a microwave.

Now Edwin is checking the tub after preparing a great meal and coffee and installing/impementing the computer. I only drove the car today at the moments New Mexican soil allowed me to do so.

Arie

NB Zie ook de prachtige fotoserie in Fotogalerij

Kamperen aan Lake Elephant Butte

14 en 15 febr in New Mexico
We zijn gisteravond aangekomen in 'Truth or Consequenses' (vroeger heette het Hot Springs ). Ja zo heette het echt.

Na drie prachtdagen in Albuquerque bij Hank en Norita.

Het was even zoeken voordat we een slaapplekkie gevonden hadden. Alles zat vol ivm Valentijn. Ja zo gaat dat :dubbele prijzen lijkt wel en alles is bezet, nou ja, bijna alles.

Het plaatsje staat bekend om zijn heet water bronnen. Wij vonden een plekkie in een inn met hete baden. Vierkante gaten in de grond met heet/warm water erin. Op de bodem lagen kiezelstenen en het was er leuk en schoon . Het werkte goed hoor; ik heb geslapen als een roos en was de volgende dag lekker fris.

Voordat we de volgende dag op pad gaan ga ik eerst maar even naar de goede super markt, die van de vorige avond was echt basic. We hebben ons goed gered en het eten smaakte goed. Bij de super stonden scouts die een voedsel inzamelings actie deden . We hebben lekker gekletst. Dit jaar zit er een jubileum aan te komen: 100 jaar scouting in Amerika. Lijkt me ook wel leuk.... Arie komt me met de mini-suv tegemoet.

Wat is de auto vies. Voordat we het dorp uitgaan eerst nog even tanken, ramen poetsen en sfeer proeven in het pompstation.Gewapend met een ruime beker koffie op weg naar een volgend adres. Omdat alles vol zit heeft het zoeken weinig nut en gaan we kamperen bij Lake Elephant Butte.

Later zal blijken dat er een eiland in zit datvan de boven af gezienop het hoofd/kop van een olifant lijkt. Als je het weet kan je het er in zien .

Nou ja we gaan eerst lunchen op het strand en dan besluiten we de omgeving te gaan bekijken . Mooi eindje gelopen en geklommen ; we zijn allebeide tevreden. Bij aankomst blijkt Aries rug het allemaal toch wat vermoeiend te vinden en vervolg ik mijn wandeltocht om buiten het park een warme maaltijd te gaan scoren. Gauw terug gelopen . Hetgeheel blijkt zowaar ook nog warm te zijn en bovendien nog goed te smaken ook. Een bedankje aan de taverne ! Arie relaxt achter in de auto, omgebouwd tot mini-slaapkameren ik duik zo het tentje in wat op het strand staat.

Dikke slaapzak, die nul graden aan kan.

ps 1. we hebben het museum van Geronimo overgeslagen; waarschijnlijk is er niet meer zoveel nieuws voor ons te zien .

ps2. Het tentje, een slaapzak en matje waren keurug bewaard door H & R in ABQ, achter gelaten door A. in april 2007.

Truth or Consequences

Today we left Albuquerque and our hospitable cousins Hank and Norita. A marvellous time and people with a big sense of humour.

They were our guide or made contacts. Was it a family-visit or a city-break?

The historic museum: Bill Gates started his career in ABQ. The computer history was exhibited in a technical but esp creative way.

Other (real) dino's were also impressive.

Old town: we only missed the cowboys, falling down the balconies.

The Indian Pueblo Cultural Center. Norita is also volunteering there. Real Indian art and about the tribes' history.

Adobe houses, both in downtown as in sububurb (village) Corrales. The text entering the village is still there: Drive slow and see our village; drive fast and see our judge.

Climbing Sandia Peak (ski-area) on a snowy road; there are mini-SUV's made for!

Visiting a Scouting event. Marvellous reception by the BSA: American Boy Scouts Association.

-----

Great to have local people to show us the way. And serve us as the best 5***** hotel/restaurant.

=====================

So T or C now. On our way we visited Bosque del Apache. Thousands of birds, in the wetland, adjacent to the Rio Grande, just south of Socorro (= Help). It's an important migrating corridor.
Not manyspecimen now, but many of the one dominating.

The Rio Grande was agricultural area in the high desert, it was obvious.

In San Antonio - a hamlet actually too small to be on the map but since there's a traffic-light, it is.

We couldn't help eating our fisrst 'burger'. Let's say 'inburgeren' (becoming a dedicated citizen) in the USA.
Two years ago I was a guest in the same Buckhorn snackbar, hitch hiking in the snowy April to ABQ. Now in February it was gorgeous, sunny, 15 degrees.

We were lucky (again) today. Of course: Friday the 13th.

A.

Echt waar

Het is vrijdag de 13e.

Huuuuhh!!!?

Nooit aan gedacht.

Want morgen is het 'Valentine'.

En de veertiende dus.

We merken dat vrijdagmiddag.

We willen de komende nacht graag slapen.

Dan stap je toch een motel of hostel binnen!?

Ruimte genoeg want de Amerikanen...

...moeten de broekriem aanhalen.

Dat valt voor een Amerikaan vaak niet mee.

Want hij is nogal dik.

En zij ook.

Want er zijn veel 'fast food' ketens.

Edwin maakt daarvan een lijstje.

Want het is cultuur, zegt hij.

Maar op de dertiende gaan de Amerikanen op pad.

Lekker een weekend Valentijn vieren.

Dat doe je in een 'spa'.

Edwin noemt dat een hot tub.

Maar wij moeten ons het vuur ...

...uit de sloffen lopen,

om een dak boven ons hoofd te vinden.

Eindelijk lukt het.

We zijn in een plaatsje...

met een mooie naam.

Truth or Consequences.

Echt waar.

Vroeger heette het Hot Springs.

Zoiets als Bad Bentheim.

We vinden toch een huisje,

met twee bedden

een keukentje

tv, magnetron, koelkast, koffiezetapparaat, wifi....

en het mooiste van alles:

een grote wastobbe ( = badkuip),

lekker warm,

lekker rieleksen.

Vandaag heb ik gereden

en moet Edwin koken.

Lekker macaroni

en daarna het warme bad.

Edwin komt terug uit de wastobbe.

Een beetje geroosterd.

Of is het bruin?

Want elke dag zon,

dat zie je aan het velletje.

We wensen jullie...

... een mooie Valentijn.

Wat dat is?

Goochel Valentine.

Good luck.

A.

Rating & ranking

Tiger Woods = number 1 (he's a golf player stupid...)

Americans like ranking lists. And who does not?

So Norita, my cousin where we're staying now, in New Mexican Albuquerque likes to be ranked as a host. She asked for it so here are the points.

1. Lodging: *** ad 1

2. Dining: ***

3. Breakfast: **

4. Guiding: **

5. Driving us around *****

6. Patience and unserstanding *****

7. Trying to make us comfortable ******

All could have been five. Some remarks:

ad 1. Generally good.But we only had one bathroom. We had to polish shoes ourselves. And the beds were not made every day.We expected kingsize and room television. No roomservice possible. No wifi. But great compensation, using her computer.

ad 2. Taste and volume gorgeous. But we ate too much due to the perfect flavour and composition. It was seducing us in a sneaky way... And out eating, she took remnants of the meal, a good American custom but I was not allowed to drink my bottle of beer empty underway, she being afraid of the sheriff? And the beer was the remarkable Fat tire.

That's no five butthree stars

ad 3. Only three brands of coffee to choose from. No roomservice.

ad 4. Nice places we visited. But too much information. And some mistakes about John Deere performances. Not her fault but info about the computer history in the ABQ History Museum stopped in 1982... And why didn't she keep Bill Gates in NM and did he leave for Seattle? Or better, didn't she start action to get Microsft back?

ad 5. A new car to show us around. Nice info about things to see underway. And respecting th traffic lights more than I should have done.

ad 6. With this type of guests she shows a great endurance and patience.

ad 7. A new rating star, because it's gorgeous to see her and Hank do everything that's possible to make us feel comfortable in ABQ.

This is our first impression. New test and checking today and we're waiting for a mystery guests's results.

ad 1I missed the offer to polish my shoes

Grand Canyon and Petrified Forest

Flagstaff revisited and Grand Canyon

Saturday and Sunday 7/8 February

Base camp for visiting the Grand Canyon and maybe to take some rest after the flight Amsterdam - Phoenix. For me it was coming home because the Grand Canyon International Hostel was the place to be I needed two years ago, after cycling from Durango CO to the Grand Canyon. Relaxed small town with all facilities (motels, petrol stations and WalMart) but much more.

This time we took the 'south entrance', coming from Sedona via the wonderful Oak Creek Canyon. Our rental car was possibly more fit to do so now, mounting 3000 feet within 15 miles, than my bicyle and me. Sedona appeared still to be nice and a bit Slowdona but the gorgeous red rocks were still older and magic as ever on the pictures and in my memory.
I was a bit worried because Edwin was silent for many periods but actually it was because of the breath taking views.

Good choice weatherwise to visit Grand Canyon Saturday (thank you advisors of the hostel). Sunday morning it was time for a change and without Obama's involvement earth had changed in a white romantic area where everybody was polite and relaxed and helpful. Shovels to remove the snow, trains slowly passing by with thousands of tons of goods, kindly saying hallo by many blasts of the siren, people having a cup of coffee or donut in Macey's, a meetingpoint for students and tourists.
Where are you coming from? Of course, why not? Almost as polite as the Americans we told about our roots. And most people in this setting knew Europe, more details than ever.
In the meantime the nice upgrade (by the snow) of our white rental car went lost and some papers under the wiper appeared. Commercials again?
No, an invitation by the City of Flagstaff administration to come to the Town Hall within 15 days.
A queer thing that they ask 20 dollars admission for it, is the American way of life that commercialised???

We'll ask tomorrow. And the hostel staff advised to park the car elsewhere...

Today we'll visit the Epiphany Church a.o. to see and hear Eric singing. I happened to meet him two years ago. Last night we had dinner together at a Mexican resto, La Casa Bonita (bit a Dutch name for a reputed phenomenon). Enchillada and Macho Burrito for us. We 'deserved' it after (or in) a jetlag and after cooking in the hostel ourselves.

Next week we'll head for Albuquerque, visiting my cousins. They like to meet Edwin and we were promised to get a first class guided tour through the Indian Pueblo Cultural Center, one of this tour's highlights.
And Hank is growing peaches so we'll get the chance to taste (again).
On the way to ABQ we'll stick a bit to the Interstate 40 because of the unpredictable weather. But we certainly not skip Acoma Pueblo (Sky City) and the Petrified Forest.; even snowy should it be magical.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Monday 9 February

Traveling in Arizona and entering New Mexico today.

-08.55: Visit the Flagstaff townhall to pay a $ 20 fine due to parking th car 'between 12.00 and 07.00 a.m. along the road that might be made snowfree by the Flagstaff Road Department. And it did snow that night, about ten inches. The front desk lady was kind but I had to pay. Rules, you know. And of course, it's our duty to support American economy even with this small contribution.

-09.05 h. : unguided tour in the Townhall. Invited to an upgrade class of the Arizona Fire Brigade Sections.

-leaving Flagstaff in the snow on the Route 66 and driving parallel to a BNSF freight train. Seven locomotives and again 1 mile carts. Same speed (60 miles/h)

-09.50: all at a sudden no more snow on the road, the Interstate 40 between LA and ABQ.

-11.00 entering Petrified Forest. Nice visitor center and cold (wind!) trip among the gorgeous/awful petrified trees. Then the tour through the park. Many panoramas and sometimes views like I saw in the Badlands South Dakota.

13.00: visiting the other Visitor Center near the I 40. The front desk lady answers all our questions (survey: a.o. petrified due to volcanos covering the trees and its minerals took the place of the rotten wood). Route 66 stamp in our passports.

14.00 Visitor Center New Mexico (border) for some info about possible highlights. And as experienced travellers: picking the hotel vouchers guide for the discounts. We like to be good and dedicated citizens and follow American habits...

15.30 Checking in RedRoof Inn in Gallup. With discount voucher!

Wifi, microwave, tv, refrigerator, tub and two queensize (= Beatrix size) beds.

16.30 u. Three courses (?) dinner prepared by Edwin and the micro.

17.00 u. Arie is going to wifi and update the website for the website visitors.

17.15 Edwin sits down in the tub.

17.25 Edwin is screaming because of the unpredictable shower gifts. Arie decides not to stand the heat like this.

Plans today: maybe downtown Gallup but the Petrified Visistor Center Lady says she only appreciated Gallup because of the Walmart.

Very commercial Indian stuff to be found. 'Walmart cheap Indian stuff expensive', is her opinion.

Tomorrow: Acoma Pueblo and heading to Santa Fé.

Wednesday heading for ABQ. Maybe Bandelier NM underway (if no heavy snow and/or a combination of and hail and wind). Visit my cousins Norita & Hank, long time not seen (Hank in June 2008 in Bismarck, ND, both in 2007 in ABQ)

Tuesday or Wednesday

Flagstaff revisited

Flagstaff, northern Arizona.

Base camp for visiting the Grand Canyon and maybe to take some rest after the flight Amsterdam - Phoenix. For me it was coming home because the Grand Canyon International Hostel was the place to be I needed two years ago, after cycling from Durango CO to the Grand Canyon. Relaxed small town with all facilities (motels, petrol stations and WalMart) but much more.

This time we took the 'south entrance' to the Canyon,after reaching Vlaggemast(Dutch) from Sedona via the wonderful Oak Creek Canyon. Our rental car was possibly more fit to do so now, mounting 3000 feet within 15 miles, than my bicyle and me two years ago from the opposite side. Sedona appeared still to be nice and a bit Slowdona but the gorgeous red rocks were still older and magic as ever on the pictures and in my memory.
I was a bit worried because Edwin was silent for many periods but actually it was because of the breath taking views.

Good choice weatherwise to visit Grand Canyon Saturday (thank you advisors of the hostel). Sunday morning it was time for a change and without Obama's involvement, earth had changed into a white romantic area where everybody was polite and relaxed and helpful. Shovels to remove the snow, trains slowly passing by with thousands of tons of goods, kindly saying hallo by many blasts of the siren, people having a cup of coffee or donut in Macey's, a meetingpoint for students and tourists.
Where are you coming from? Of course, why not? Almost as polite as the Americans we told about our roots. And most people in this setting knew Europe, more details than ever.
In the meantime the nice upgrade (by the snow) of our white rental car went lost by the severe sunshineand some papers under the wiper appeared. Commercials again?
No, an invitation by the City of Flagstaff administration to come to the Town Hall within 15 days.
A queer thing that they ask 20 dollars admission for it, is the American way of life that commercialised???

We'll ask tomorrow. And the hostel staff advised to park the car elsewhere...

Today we'll visit the Epiphany Church a.o. to see and hear Eric singing. I happened to meet him two years ago. Last night we had dinner together at a Mexican resto, La Casa Bonita (bit a Dutch name for a reputated phenomenon). Enchillada and Macho Burrito for us. We 'deserved' it after (or in) a jetlag and after cooking in the hostel ourselves.

Next week we'll head for Albuquerque, visiting my cousins. They like to meet Edwin and we were promised to get a first class guided tour through the Indian Pueblo Cultural Center, one of this tour's highlights.
And Hank is growing peaches so we'll get the chance to taste (again).
On the way to ABQ we'll stick a bit to the Interstate 40 because of the unpredictable weather more northern. Unfortunately we'll have to skip Monument Valley. But we certainly not skip Acoma Pueblo (Sky City) and the Petrified Forest.; even snowy should it be magical.